Tlayudas de La Chinita July 29, 2022
There is a famous Mexican standup routine that, in rough translation, goes something like this:
“Oh, yes, in Mexico we have such a rich tradition of cuisine—such a marvelous variety of dishes. For instance, there is the Huarache, one of my favorites, consisting of mashed beans, mild cheese, hot peppers, on a soft corn tortilla.”
“Sounds delicious.”
“Yes, it is. And then there are Sopes, also very delicious.”
“And what are they made of?”
“Mashed beans, mild cheese, hot peppers, on a soft corn tortilla.”
“Sopes sound like Huaraches.”
“No, very different.”
“How so?”
“The shape.”
“Hmm. Any other popular foods?”
“Oh, yes, in Morelos they love their Tlacoyos.”
“Tlacoyos? That sounds unique. What are in Tlcacoyos?
“Mashed beans, mild cheese, hot peppers—“
“Don’t tell me, on a soft corn tortilla?”
“No, stuffed inside.”
“And a different shape?”
“Yes, very different. Delicious.”
This savory comedy can go for hours, taking us down the same list of ingredients—Tamales, Enchiladas, Enfrijoladas, Enmoladas, Gringas, Gorditas, Chilaquiles, Tostadas, and, of course, Tacos.
It is broadly agreed, and I will not argue, that the Taco is the perfect food delivery system. It is tasty, easy to prepare, and enjoyed by young and old alike. It is perfect for restaurants, at home, or on sidewalk street stands. It comes in its own packaging, the tortilla, ready to go, requiring nothing more than a well-stocked array of condiments—lime, salsa, pickled onions and peppers, fresh cilantro.
In terms of popularity in the Western Hemisphere, perhaps only the Pizza is greater, but that would require a fancy oven. Mexicans are far more apt to make do with less. Moreover, the Pizza is big and pricey, whereas the Taco costs, at most, 16 pesos, even with savory meat toppings. Tacos de Canasta, Tacos Asadas, Tacos al Pastor—Todos Son Muy Ricos!
One notable outlier in this Taco-centric society is Estado Oaxaca. While tacos can be found in the city, they do not dominate the market. Indeed, one must search long and hard to even find the small soft corn-tortillas here. This is because in Oaxaca the king of the food pyramid is the Tlayuda. Sounds delicious? It is. Mashed beans, mild cheese, hot peppers, corn tortilla, but in a singularly unique shape, and that shape is gi-normous. It is as if a Taco had an unwholesome affair with a Pizza and produced a monstrous offspring.
Our Tlayuda options are many downtown, but we choose to try them at what is considered the best joint in the city, Tlayudas de La Chinita, the “Little Chinese Lady,” the pride of the South Side. Located 5 blocks south of us, on the corner of Calle Nuño del Mercado and Calle 20 de Noviembre, this crowded spot is by no means a restaurant, but this does not keep the dozens of diners from sitting down for their meals on the sidewalk steps, on plastic buckets and milk crates, or simply on the grimy curb. The waiters will not mind in the least, because the waiters do not exist.
From 8 pm until around 2 am every night, this portable stand is packed with hungry Oaxaqueños. The other shops in the neighborhood are long closed and shuttered, leaving only the lights of the nearby San Jose public hospital, just in case one’s culinary experience goes awry.
The Tlayuda comes in two sizes at La Chinita, large and extremely large. The former is the size of a frisbee, the latter the equivalent of a monster truck hubcap. The giant white tortilla is prepared while you wait. First it is smeared with beans and meat grease, then covered with mild cheese, chopped cabbage and onion, and a choice of flattened and salted meat. Finally, the whole thing is folded in half and scorch-toasted on an open flame. Best be available when your number is called because this rigorous system does not tolerate slackers. Otherwise, prepare yourself for a massive calorie load and plan your late evening accordingly. The line outside San Jose’s is as long as ever. The little Chinese lady will not be available to help you because she does not exist.
My friend Scarlett, a restaurant owner from Mexico City, helps to clarify the situation: “I believe in the case of that particular stand (I could be wrong) la Chinita refers to the owner with wavy hair. During the caste colonial period straight lighter hair was seen as Spanish; kinky, dark hair represented the enslaved population; straight, dark hair as Indio; and anything in between, or other, “chino” was used, for curly or wavy locks.” So, in short, do not expect egg rolls at Tlayudas de la Chinita.